Our time in Kyrgyzstan was running and still we wanted to see so many places. A bit overwhelmed by the choices we decided to head for the many times recommended lake Song Kol in the very center of Kyrgyzstan. The alpine lake is said to have a very beautiful setting at approx. 3.000 metres sourrounded by the allegedly richest and greenest mountain pastures of the country. Since our eagle hunting experience had impressively shown our natural talent, style and elegance on horseback we decided to go big and book a 2-day horsetrek to the lake through Shepherd’s life (a community-based tourism project like CBT).
The night before leaving we were lucky to spend at a homestay of an incredibly nice Kyrgyz family who would even get in their traditional clothes and perform a number of songs for us. Although we could not communicate it was really pleasant to be around their house and enjoy their delicious home cooked meals.
Taditional clothes and folk music for dinner
Next day we were brought to Jumbal where our guide (17, although he looked like 12) would wait for us with the horses. I was very excited since horse riding had been the most long-lasting and unfulfilled of my childhood dreams. The brief experience at eagle hunting had proven pleasant and I already saw myself gallopping through meadows of wild flowers on a beautiful white horse.With no instruction whatsoever from our guide who didn’t speak a word of English we got on our horses and took off. The horses, all of them stallions, were taller and less tranquil than the ones we’ve had before when eagle hunting. Still, we managed to ride up to the pass overlooking Song Kol just fine. Our guide didn’t give much about our whereabouts and either was far ahead or far behind us talking to friends he met along the way. The scenery along the way was stunning, soft hills full of wild flowers, little rivers and herds of cows, sheep and horses grazing all over.
Happy horsemen
Meadows with wild flowers on the way up to the pass
The pastures are dotted with thousands of Edelweiss
After about 4 hours on horseback our bodies (especially knees and butts) started to ache a LOT. It was all downhill from the peak which didn’t make things easier or less painful. We decended into a picturesque valley dotted with yurts where nomadic families keep their herds over the summer. The amount of animals in the valley was just impressive. However, by the end of the day everything hurt, so we couldn’t even enjoy the views anymore. When finally arriving at our yurt camp we fell off our saddles and were laughed at by the locals who all seem to be born on horses. Only a French couple who had arrived a bit earlier perfectly understood our miserable condition (they like us walked like drunk penguins).
After some time we managed to get back to our feet and have a walk along the shore of the lake. Dinner worked its miracles, we started to feel better and we finally got to taste the famous Kyrgyz Kumys (fermented horse milk). Playing cards with the nice French and their guide (who spoke English!) day turned into night and we went to sleep in our yurt.
Yurts at the shore of Song Kol, our camp for the night
Herds of horses, everywhere!
Milking the cows for our breakfast
Views on the lake
Next day started off with beautiful wheather and we were on our horses early for the descent back to Jumbal. Riding together with the French and their guide was a lot more fun and we finally also got to ask some questions. So for example we learned that all our horses were male, because the females are only used for agricultural purposes (milk and meat production).
The way up to the pass was easy and went rather quick. Less so the descent. Our horses were tired and nervous. I was kicked by Fritz’ horse and mine didn’t behave according to a beginner’s skills either. The last two hours were very tiring, everytime the animals went into trot the pain in my calves made me wonder why exactly I had been dreaming about this for so long 😉
Eventually, after Fritz’ horse had tripped and he (with the grace of a turtle lying on its back) rolled over the horses head, we made it back to the village. I almost couldn’t get off he beast on my own because my legs didn’t respond. The taxi ride back to Kochkor we spent in agony, promising ourselves that this had been the last time for us on horses (until the next time). That night at our homestay we had Beshbarmak (noodles with horse meat) – very adequate after this exhausting, but nontheless memorable trip.
Alex
Jul 14, 2014
Perfekter Sitz Manu!
Da soll noch einer sagen, das stundenlange Üben auf dem Zählerkasten hätte sich nicht gelohnt :)!!
Manuela
Jul 14, 2014
Ganz meine Rede 😉
Martina
Jul 15, 2014
ha, das war bestimmt das vorher-foto, wo ist das nachher? 😉
Éric&Vivi
Jul 17, 2014
Hi guys !
Such a nice evening in the yourt, with the family and great khumiz experience…
Enjoy and see you later on the road ☺
Éric&Vivi
Asialavista
Fritz
Jul 21, 2014
Yea, it was really great – hope to see you on the road
Barbara
Jul 20, 2014
Fritzi, mit Diskohaxn kann man auch nicht reiten!!!
Theresia (Tante)
Jul 30, 2014
Hallo ihr beiden!
Danke für die tollen Fotos!(mit dem Lesen happerts a bissl, da brauch i ewig zan übersetzen)
G´freit mi, dass eich guat geht!
Ganz liebe Grüße!
T+P+B+M